Pictured above and left: Christian Lacroix

Dotcom millionairesses, pop stars and screen goddesses may buy the clothes, but haute couture continues to remain distanced from the high-tech modern world. Just to remind us that we were stepping into another time and place, Pierre Berge, head of Yves Saint Laurent couture, asked everyone in the audience to switch off their mobile phones before the start of the show, lest the dramatic spell cast by the strains of Verdi be rudely shattered by the electronic version of Britney's Baby, One More Time on somebody's Nokia. It was a week of haute cut-and-thrust.

At least four new couturiers stepped into fashion's salle - Julien Macdonald at Givenchy; Yves Mispelaere at Louis Feraud; Carlo Ponti, the latest American in Paris; and Lebanese-born Ellie Saab, who is Queen Rania of Jordan's favourite.

London-based milliner Philip Treacy made his second couture appearance. His collection, entitled "Severe Beauty", featured one- off designs by Alexander McQueen, Chanel and Anouk Meeuwis, the new star of Graduate Fashion Week from Middlesex University. But even if the new generation had resorted to putting a prancing steed on the catwalk - as did Franck Sorbier - they could not have upstaged the masters.

An exotic, ethnic mood has enthralled many couturiers for this autumn/winter season. Their collections unfolded like a magic carpet ride to mysterious faraway lands. Christian Lacroix (see picture above) clothed his models like pirate queens in dazzling silks and a treasure chest's worth of jewels that could have been plundered from a Spanish galleon. Jean Paul Gaultier was enthralled by Imperial China.

Emanuel Ungaro had pitched his couture tent in a fantasy desert peopled by Berber princesses in lace and tribal jewellery. John Galliano, for Christian Dior, was traversing the Siberian wastes once crossed by Genghis Khan and Marco Polo. And Moscow-born duo Seredin & Vassiliev were inspired by The Sleeping Beauty.

Karl Lagerfeld showed just who wears the trousers today: the new, 21st century Chanel woman There were trousers for day (in fine tweed, braided down the sides, regimental style) and trousers for dinner (in finest silk mousseline, swathed with pearls and a short sarong). There were trousers for cocktails, in see-through silk chiffon, and for grand balls, in black sequins. Even the bride wore the pants - cream satin drainpipes under a matching split-skirt.

Valentino and Versace delivered the sort of red carpet glamour their international celebrity clients adore. Valentino dazzled with gossamer-fine black lace or red silk, embellished with feathers and mink; Donatella Versace impressed with tiger-stripe chiffon and hand-painted, crystal-encrusted silk taffeta, worn over glitter leggings.

The grand master, Yves Saint Laurent, closed the week with a 77- piece collection which was polished perfection, demonstrating his consummate skill as a couturier. How could anyone fail to be inspired?

By Hilary Alexander, The Daily Telegraph